Naltar Ishkoman Trek

The trek from Naltar to Phakora unfolds across several stages, each offering its own unique experiences and challenges:

**Stage 1** – Naltar to Naltar Lakes (About 12 km): The journey commences with a 12 km walk, approximately taking 4 hours on foot. Alternatively, it can be covered in just one hour by jeep. As suggested in the book, the path leads you through a dense pine forest. After approximately nine kilometers and crossing a bridge, you will reach Bangla, a summer settlement. The trek continues through more forested areas, eventually bringing you to the first of the Naltar Lakes. In total, there are four lakes in the vicinity, and you might even have the opportunity to do some fishing, as mentioned by Isobel Shaw.

**Stage 2** – Naltar Lake to Lower Shani (Four to five hours): This part of the journey typically takes four to five hours. Along the route, you will encounter a summer gujar settlement known as Gupa. It is advisable to have a shepherd or local guide you, as the path may not be entirely clear at certain points. Your day's destination is Lower Shani, which serves as a summer camp for shepherds. The area is surrounded by several peaks, each approximately 5800 meters in height.

**Stage 3** – Lower Shani to Naltar Base Camp (Four to five hours): The trek continues along the edge of the Shani glacier until you reach upper Shani, a pasture area. Following a path through knee-deep flowers, you'll eventually arrive at a plateau at an elevation of 4100 meters, where you can set up camp for the night.

**Stage 4** – Across Naltar Pass to Kruibokht (Six hours): This stage involves a six-hour trek that begins with a two-hour ascent over stones and snow to reach the flat summit of Naltar Pass. From this vantage point, you'll be treated to views of Shispar peak in the distance. The initial part of the descent on the other side of Naltar Pass crosses crevassed snow fields. Following this, there is a challenging two-hour walk along the crest of the lateral moraine of Pakhora glacier. Your campsite for the night will be at a green pasture alongside a stream.

**Stage 5** – Kruibokht to Phakora (Six hours): The journey from Kruibokht to Phakora spans six hours. Initially, the path takes you above the river, passing through pastures and dense forest. As you make your way through settlements, you will eventually arrive at the Utz village. The final stretch is a hot and demanding three to four hours, which eventually leads you to Phakora, a small village with some shops. From Phakora, you can catch jeeps to your next destination, Gilgit.