Overview
Diran, situated in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Range in the western Karakorum, is a captivating mountain with some historical confusion about its height. However, it is now widely acknowledged to stand at 7,272 meters above sea level. This magnificent peak graces the Gilgit Valley, enhancing its rugged beauty with a touch of splendor.
In 1968, a determined Austrian expedition, composed of Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger, and Hanns Schell, set their sights on Diran. Their initial aim had been to climb Kampire Dior peak, but permission was denied, leading them to tackle Diran. The expedition established its first camp at an altitude of 4,800 meters. The journey to the summit presented daunting challenges, including treacherous crevasses, harsh weather conditions, and deep snow. It wasn't until they reached camp III that they successfully reached the peak, describing it as a "big summit plateau." The mountain's history includes a 1958 British expedition to Diran, which faced unfortunate circumstances as its leader, E.G.C. Warr, and a member, F.C. Hoyt disappeared in a storm when they were just 300 feet from the summit.
In 1959, a German Karakorum expedition led by Hans Jochen Schneider aimed to conduct geological and geophysical surveys in the Batura Glacier area but was denied permission. As a result, they shifted their focus to the Rakaposhi region. On June 9th, one of the team members, Erwin Stocker, along with a porter, reached an 18,000-foot col located north of Diran. The expedition came within less than a thousand feet of the north-west face of the summit.
Subsequent attempts were made, including a 1964 Austrian expedition from Salzburg that faced challenges due to bad weather and avalanche risks. The expedition, consisting of only three climbers, was unable to conquer Diran.
In 1965, a Japanese expedition from the Kyoto Mountaineering Federation made a valiant effort to reach the summit. Despite coming remarkably close, within 250 feet of the north-west face, the climb had to be abandoned due to strong winds and swirling snow.
| DAY | ITINERARY | ALTITUDE | RESIDENCE |
|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | Arrive Islamabad International Airport & transfer to hotel | 512m | Hotel |
| 02 | Islamabad briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan | 512m | Hotel |
| 03 | Fly to Gilgit (PK606) or drive to Chilas | 1500m / 1265m | Hotel |
| 04 | Drive to Minapin village via Gilgit or Chilas | 2500m | Hotel |
| 05 | Trek from Minapin to Rakaposhi Base Camp | 3400m | Camping |
| 06 | Trek from Rakaposhi Base Camp to Diran Base Camp | 3600m | Camping |
| 07–34 | Climbing Period – Diran Peak (28 days) | 7266m max | Camping |
| 35 | Trek down from Diran Base Camp to Taghaphari | — | Camping |
| 36 | Trek to Minapin village & drive to Gilgit | 2500m | Hotel |
| 37 | Fly to Islamabad (PK608) or drive via Naran Valley | 512m | Hotel |
| 38 | Islamabad debriefing and farewell dinner | 512m | Hotel |
| 39 | Transfer to Islamabad International Airport | — | Flight |
Services Included
- Comprehensive airport pickup and drop-off services.
- Round-trip airfare between Islamabad and Skardu.
- Transportation, including briefings, debriefings, and sightseeing.
- Transportation between Skardu, Askoli, Hushe, and Skardu.
- Three nights of accommodation in Islamabad, featuring twin-bed rooms with bed and breakfast provided.
- Three nights of full board accommodation in a Skardu hotel.
- Two nights of full board accommodation in a Chilas hotel.
- Coverage for local staff, encompassing wages, insurance, food, and equipment.
- Support from low porters to transport expedition and trekking equipment, as well as food supplies.
- Allowance for 75 kg of equipment per climbing member on the ascent.
- Allowance for 50 kg of equipment per climbing member on the descent.
- Provision of all trekking and base camp meals.
- Supply of comfortable member tents, mess tents, kitchen tents, storage tents, office tents, shower tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and kitchen utensils.
- Assistance with reconfirming international flight tickets.
- Coverage of all camping fees, road taxes, and bridge crossing fees.
- Supply of low porters' equipment.
- Documentation and climbing permit.
- Management fees for CKNP West.
- Royalty fees and additional member fees.
- Kit allowance, food, and flight fare for the liaison officer.
- Availability of an electric generator/solar system at the base camp.
- Heating system at the base camp.
Services Not Included
- International flight tickets for members.
- Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not used, currently at US$15,000).
- Climbing gear for members.
- Personal insurance for members.
- High-altitude tents.
- High-altitude food.
- High-altitude porters.
- Sleeping bags and personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor, soft drinks, room service, gratuities for personal services, and items of a purely personal nature.
- Charges for custom clearing (import and export of equipment).
- EPI gas and oxygen cylinders.
- Any unforeseen expenses, including roadblocks and additional hotel stays if members stay more days at the Base Camp. Extra expenses will be charged according to the number of additional days.
- Trekking members and climbing members will remain together. If any member splits during the trip, extra expenses will be charged at the normal price.
